ITALY JOURNAL ENTRY
September
13, 2001
NAPLES, ITALY
We had hired a driver to meet us in Naples based on the recommendation of a friend who had taken the same cruise a few months earlier. (Thanks Fred!) Our driver, whose name was Tony, met us at the port and off we were to Pompeii. As we drove, Mt. Vesuvius loomed up in the background.
When we arrived at Pompeii, a man approached us and offered to guide us through Pompeii. We hired him on the spot! One thing I have discovered on this trip is how little I know. Tours are best left to the professionals! Another advantage to having a guide is that you don't have to stand in line to buy a ticket. Guides are allowed to go to the front of the line in every country we have visited thus far!
I have to admit I had a morbid curiosity to see Pompeii. Ever since 4th grade, when I learned about Pompeii and the fact that some citizens were found in exactly the same position in which they died, my imagination had gone wild. I was so curious to see it for myself. Apparently, I wasn't the only one who was curious because the crowds seemed to gather around the hapless citizens on display at the ruins of Pompeii.
Pompeii was an unlucky city. It had survived a disastrous earthquake in 62 A.D. which destroyed many of the buildings. The city was still rebuilding when Mt. Vesuvius erupted and Pompeii was completely buried under a dense hail of volcanic ash on August 24, 79 A.D. About 20,000 people lived in the city in 79 A.D. and when the city was excavated, about 2,000 bodies were found. Most were found clutching their belongings. Our guide told us that some scientists believe that people who went back to get their belongings are the ones that died. They were overcome by the fumes and they died by suffocation. Their bodies were then covered in ash which solidified. As the body decayed, a cavity was created in the ash. The cavities were later filled with plaster and the form of the person was revealed sometimes showing facial expression.
Because the city was covered in ash it is well preserved. Archeologists started to excavate in 1748 and they are still at it! We entered the home of one of Pompeii's wealthy citizens which still had perfectly preserved frescos on the walls and beautiful mosaic floors. It was still possible to see the bakery shops (bread made up 70% of the diet of the poorer people) and there were 28 wine shops.
As we walked around the city, our guide seemed to know everyone! It turned out that his father had given tours at Pompeii and now most of his family does the same including brothers, cousins, nieces and nephews! A family tradition! I felt like we were walking with the mayor of Pompeii!
We left Pompeii for the resort town of Positano. The entire town of Positano is built into a steep hillside. Lunch had been arranged at a wonderful restaurant built high in the cliffs overlooking the ocean. There were only two other tables occupied. The joys of traveling off-season. There is one road into Positano and Tony told us the drive into town during the summer months was as slow as a snails pace.
We walked down the narrow little streets after lunch and went down to the beach. The sun felt so good! After the events of September 11, we were ready to check into a hotel and hide out in Positano for awhile.